14 July 2025

UTMB Val d'Aran 100M 2025

 


View from above Benos


First Failure

D-N-F. Did Not Finish. The letters and the words bounced around in my head as a struggled slowly down a rocky woodland path. Runner after runner dodged past me at speed, and I'd ceased attempting to help them by moving to one side - there were too many of them, and I was the one in pain, a lot of it. They could skip round on the bumpier side of the trail, if they really wanted to get past. Some slowed to ask if I was ok and had to guess which language to use; I'd neglected to put the label with name and nationality on the back of my pack. Given I was moving, none were concerned enough to think it was a situation worthy of stopping, although one offered to call the emergency rescue number for me. Each time someone asked, I attempted to convey it was a knee issue, but later settled for just saying "I'm ok", though I was anything but.

Around an hour prior, I'd been flying down a steep, dry woodland trail on the heels of some speedy runners, having set a considerably faster pace through the first couple of sections than the LiveTrail app had predicted from my UTMB Index. It was a very long descent, and as I got to around three quarters of the way down, my right knee started objecting to the repeated leaping down drops, around rocks and over roots. The pain ramped up quickly and, as I approached the third checkpoint at Bossost, I knew I was in big trouble. My support crew were at the side of the course shortly before the checkpoint. They shouted encouragement, but saw the discomfort on my face as I went past.

For reasons I haven't yet identified, and regardless of how well I have fuelled on the initial part of a race, when I get to around 4-5 hours in, a wave of emotion starts to build alongside a feeling of physical struggle. I'm so familiar with it that I am no longer concerned of the consequences; I know it will pass, I know I am capable of running for 48 hours if needed, but I can't control my reaction. This time, it was building alongside a sharp pain behind my knee cap - one that has blighted me on multiple races, but not yet actually stopped me finishing. It hit hard. I limped into the aid station, picked out a spare bench in desperation and headed directly to it. I pulled my pack off, lay on my back and instantly started sobbing. It was the combination of the expected emotion and the unwanted agony of my knee.

I took a few minutes of rest, but it wasn't a serious enough attempt to let the swelling subside - something that had rescued a lesser knee situation in a previous race. I shovelled some food and drink in, went to the loo, and decided to set out and see if it was working, not really considering that I was committing myself to a further hilly 10km until the next checkpoint. It was a big error - my knee wasn't at all ok and it took just a few minutes for me to realise the consequences; even though it was clear I couldn't continue, I had to limp along to the next aid station, 10km away, in order to retire from the race. I suppose it would have been reasonable to inform the race director and head back to the checkpoint I'd just left but in the moment, it wasn't a course of action I was considering. I limped on for what seemed like an eternity, playing through my head the thought that my biggest race, my first race as a 50-year-old, and one I'd travelled hundreds of miles to compete in, was also going to become my first race retirement. I'd failed.

A High-Risk Plan

Early in the year, I'd been forming ideas for what significant things to do when I turned 50 in June. Buoyant from finishing my 5th 100-mile race, the Arc of Attrition in Cornwall, I felt invincible with tackling that distance, no matter the difficulty level of the course. I'd failed to secure a place in the UTMB Mont Blanc lottery, the flagship UTMB race, so needed something else special. I already had Ultra Trail Snowdonia in my calendar, in mid-May - a hugely challenging 100-mile race that I'd completed once in 2024 - but it fell before my birthday and therefore didn't fit the criteria. I came up with the idea that I could do five 100-mile races in the year from June to June. There was no good reason for doing this many, other than a loose mathematical correlation with the birthday, but once I'd thought of the idea, the plan was set in motion - it was merely a matter of filling the slots. I knew I could repeat 13 Valleys in September, the Arc in January and possibly the UTS the following May. I needed two more races to fit in between. When I spotted Val d'Aran, it ticked all the boxes - beautiful mountain terrain, huge elevation (10,000m, slightly more than UTS) and an achievable distance and cost, by car or plane. Being the European Major of the UTMB series, it even offered double "stones"  for entry in the Mont Blanc lottery. The only potential problem was timing - it was less than seven weeks after the UTS.

Common wisdom seems to be that competing in a couple of marathons in a year is as much as it might be sensible to attempt. This allows for a good length of training, building up to a performance peak each time. It seems similar for 100-milers; runners will typically attempt one or possibly two in a year, allowing time to fully recover and train. Since starting with the 100-mile distance in June 2023, I've pushed to do races with increasing frequency and from May 2024, I'd be undertaking three 100-mile races within the 12 months. I convinced myself that, given the gaps I'd already managed, fitting five into 12 months was very achievable. But once I'd set my plan in motion by booking a place on Val d'Aran, I started to realise the significance of the decision - it would be a much more expensive race, given the travel, and any injury resulting from UTS could leave me holding airline tickets I didn't need. Even with a successful completion of the UTS, I didn't know if the recovery time was enough. As things turned out, I arrived at UTS carrying an injury, and brought the same one home. Very little in the way of running training happened between UTS and Val d'Aran, just a little strength training. It didn't seem like the ideal plan.

A Sunny and Thundery Holiday

The plans had evolved through the year and the trip to Spain had became a family mini-holiday, with my little jog falling towards the end. More money had been committed, but at least there were more reasons to be heading out there. We'd done some lovely sightseeing near Barcelona and continued with some touring in the Val d'Aran area but, as the week progressed, my thoughts had inevitably drifted towards the race. The nerves built in the day before the event and I had to focus on what I was about to undertake.

Two days before race day, with the forecast for the area having resolutely stuck to two afternoons of thunder, lightning and heavy rain, the race organisers had informed us that the route had changed and we'd be following a lesser course that mostly stuck to the hills adjacent to the towns and villages in Val d'Aran; the risks of sending volunteers and runners in to the remote locations of the original course were too high. Of the previous three times the event has run, the previous two had resulted in a mid-race cancellation of the 100-mile distance event. This had, unsurprisingly, caused a lot of disgruntlement amongst participants, so the preemptive action of providing a workable course would ensure everyone would get a full race and the corresponding UTMB "stones" to use in the Mont Blanc lottery. The disadvantage was that we wouldn't experience those remote places, and would follow a course that was only 88 miles and shy of three quarters of the original elevation. I was slightly disappointed with this change, but happy for the opportunity to earn my stones and not have a wasted trip.

Vielha

0 miles, Friday 1600hrs

The race start was busier than any I've known, with 652 participants on the 100-mile distance alone (there were multiple races spread over the week). I was slow to adopt my position in the second starting wave I had been assigned to and ended up a fairly long way back in the pack. It was a fun start with such big crowds cheering us through the streets of Vielha but as soon as we hit the narrow trails, it became apparent what a big field this was. It seemed implausible that I'd get in clear air at all during the race but this did happen, and not as much later as I expected.

Running poles are a popular accessory in these races; they provide various benefits, especially taking a bit of the climbing load from your quadriceps. I usually only use them for hill climbing on trails, not for hard surfaces, and not on descents (or even flat). I kept mine stashed through the first hour or so of the race because we were running in a very close pack; I didn't want to be spiking people behind me. Others seems less concerned, and those first few miles proved difficult as I had to leave extra space to the person in front, if they were carrying poles. When lining up an overtake, I'd have to consider whether the runner's handling of the poles presented an extra risk, and which side would be safest to pass. I found myself resenting their decision to employ poles while the field was so closely-spaced.

The predicted rain had started lightly as the race began, but came in full shortly after the start. The weather was warm and humid so I wasn't inclined to put a jacket on over my t-shirt. I held out for a while but, as it got heavier, the balance tipped towards needing to avoid entirely sodden clothes, so I managed to put my jacket on as I ran, removing my pack to achieve this. It didn't last a long time, perhaps 20 minutes, and after it stopped I was keen to remove my jacket again - I didn't want to get sodden with sweat either.

Vielha event village, shortly before the race start

Busy trail, early in the race

First mountain, the rain closed in

Rain rapidly clearing

Back in sunshine, but with soggy clothes

Benos, one of several mountainside villages we passed through

It felt like a brisk first couple of sections. We seemed to hit the first few aid stations quickly; they were more closely spaced than I was used to. I made good use of them to refuel, taking on board plenty of food and extra fluids. Things were going well through Benos and Vilamos. As I passed my support crew before arriving at a checkpoint, they told me I was 45 mins ahead of the estimated timings, which came as a surprise; I had considered those timings to be optimistic, and certainly wouldn't have been expecting to be so far ahead, so early in the race. I had been pushing harder than I realised. I began tackling the long, steep and technical descent to Bossost with a good deal of enthusiasm, but as I got down to the lower part of the woods, my knee woes began...

Bossost 1

19 miles, Friday 2047hrs

My decision to head out of the Bossost aid station and continue to Canejan had been costly, painful and demoralising. I'd forfeited very many places, taking a torturously long time to get off the hill. During that time, I'd slowly resigned myself to the reality that this was over, I couldn't continue. The next section after Canejan would be longer than this (16km vs 10km) with a significant peak to clear, through the night, so attempting it would seem irresponsible. As a last-ditch measure, I took some painkillers a while before the Canejan checkpoint but given the level of pain, I asked Claire to travel up to the checkpoint ready to pick me up.

As I hiked up the steep hill to the aid station, the painkillers were starting to take effect. I felt weary when I arrived, but the pain was at least slightly muted. I took my time with eating and drinking, and took a little rest. It came to decision time, and I conferred with Claire; the pain had eased, but the previous section had really taken its toll - hobbling down the hill had caused my hamstring to tighten up and start having minor spasms, and my hip was sore. Realistically, at 25 miles into an 88 mile race, I wasn't going to finish.

Between Bossost and Canejan, in pain

From Canejan, looking down to Les

Canejan

26 miles, Saturday 0005hrs

There is much to explore in the mindset of ultra marathon runners who choose to tackle 100-mile mountain races, and especially those that succeed. The races are sufficiently long in time that it is never a straightforward linear challenge, getting harder as time progresses. Rather, it is a series of micro-battles, affected by fatigue, hydration levels, your blood sugar and the state of your gut, muscular and other pains that arrive and different points and sometimes disappear again. It is a mental challenge where you must believe that each of these micro-battles can be won, and you must learn the techniques to fend them off. Fundamentally, you must have the desire to win and the tenacity to refuse to be stopped.

I haven't yet reached that final decision point to pull out of a race. I've been in sufficiently difficult positions to plan my exit, and convince myself that there is no possibility of success but when it comes to actually leaving the race, I find myself asking the question "can I make it a bit further?". With the pain lessened, I still considered the distance unachievable but I thought I could at least make it the 16km to the next aid station, even if the final descent proved difficult. So off I went into the night.

I'd browsed the elevation profile of the next section; after a fairly flat couple of miles, along the side of the hill, there was a steep, 3-mile climb. The course then travelled along the side of the mountain, under Eth Cau de Naut, before a more steady 4-mile descent on forest fire roads.

I got stuck in with a brisk hike. It was around midnight, six hours and nearing twenty-six miles into the race, and fatigue was showing on the runners around me. It had been long enough for any fuelling mistakes to start showing up. Whilst I lacked confidence that my knee would work for running downhill, it was ok with the uphill hiking. I pushed on and, now out of position, I found myself frequently passing other runners who had slowed to a very steady plod. This continued for around an hour on the ascent. As the trail levelled, my usual method came back to my mind - if you aren't climbing a hill, you should be running. I picked up a gentle jog along the high trail, and found myself passing other runners - everyone was walking.

Occasionally, someone ahead or behind would join me in attempting a jog, presumably feeling a little pressured by my enthusiasm, but they wouldn't keep it up for long so I'd disappear off. As we hit the fire roads, I had a strong desire to stop the jogging and hike down like everyone else, but I realised this was my opportunity to claw back some time and positions. I resolved to run all the way to the checkpoint. Given my ponderous pace, I thought other runners would now start passing me on the downhill, but it didn't happen; I was still overtaking others. Once off the hill and picking up the roads down to Les, I was sure people would start passing me, but it still didn't happen. Having lost 260 places on the previous section, on this one I'd pulled back 63 places in what I consider to be possibly my best section of an endurance race.

Jogging quietly through Les at 3am

Bossost by night

Bossost 2

38 miles, Saturday 0334hrs

After a 3km road section from the Les checkpoint, I was back in Bossost for the second visit to the aid station. This was the first of three where support crews were allowed to enter, and any drop bag you'd submitted would be available to access. I tended to my feet, giving them a clean, a fresh treatment of Trenchfoot lubricant and a clean pair of toe socks (socks that fit around each individual toe, like a glove). These measures, along with a preventative application of Rocktape over likely areas of blistering, worked very well at my last race and so I was doing exactly the same this time. My support crew brought me hot food and drinks. I was in much better spirits, and the pain was still significantly dulled.

Decision time arrived again, and despite the next section posing the challenge of 646m of ascent over 7km, I didn't hesitate - I'd confidently got through the previous two sections. A finish looked possible, if only the gap between the painkillers fading and the next safe window to take another dose were not too large. I wouldn't be setting a strong time - the previous slow section had really set me back, and I wasn't optimistic about holding a good pace for the remainder - but the UTMB stones could still be achieved, and I'd get to keep my unbroken record of zero retirements.

After tracking the river for a couple of miles, the course entered the woodland for the climb to Arres de Sus. There were many such climbs in this alternative route because we were holding close to the valley; the route was mostly heading up and down the nearby mountain sides via very direct routes.

Tired, but pain under control

Arres de Sus

42 miles, Saturday 0543hrs

It was early morning, but the heat and humidity were building. I sat down wearily at the aid station at Arres, not feeling hugely motivated to eat. There was some chicken broth available. Soup has served me well on previous runs as an easy way to get a few calories and fluid down when you are struggling with sweet tastes. I regretted my choice; the broth wasn't nice, and the taste lingered with me for hours after. I reverted to similar choices as previous stops - bread with olive oil layered up with cheese and salami. As ever, I mostly ignored any sweet options on offer.

A mile after Arres, the trail looked very familiar. It was getting warm, and I stopped to remove the extra layer I'd been wearing through the night. I reached a junction that I recognised clearly, this time the waymarking flags indicating a different direction. I hadn't imagined it, we had repeated a short section on this route out into the mountains.

The morning views were spectacular from up high, with the mist lingering around the distant, snowy peaks. I felt some regret that we wouldn't be tackling the more remote peaks, and as-per the forecast, the morning would be clear and hot, before giving way to thunderstorms in the afternoon.

Warming up at 6am

Dramatic views, up high near Arres de Sus

Closing in on Vilamos

Vilamos 2

48 miles, Saturday 0803hrs

By the time I'd reached the second visit to the Vilamos checkpoint, I had passed the half way mark, but I wasn't aware of the fact. After, I passed through another small village, Begos, I was repeating another section of the race in reverse. It looked familiar, but then many of the trails an villages were similar, so I wasn't sure. My pace was slow and my brain was quite disengaged. Inevitably, the fatigue of running all night was hitting me. I had been drinking Coke at the checkpoints, but I gave myself the extra boost of a caffeine gel to make up for the lack of a morning coffee.

The route tracked along the mountainsides close to the valley, aside from venturing into the woods after Vilac. The views were impressive, looking down on the villages from high above, and across to the mountain ranges beyond. The weather stayed warm and humid, but it clouded over a bit, protecting us from the heat of the sun.

Approach Arros, 9am

Arros


Vilac

53 miles, Saturday 0958hrs

Vilac to Casarilh threw in another 435m of climbing, then after a short stop at the aid station just before midday, there was another 509m of climbing before Salardu. Despite the repeated steep climbs, I had settled in to my endurance pace, and the pain management was working enough for me to keep going. After the descent was a tedious, straight and hard track. I took pictures of some small goats to amuse myself.


Approach Salardu checkpoint

Feeling strong at Salardu


Salardu

61 miles, Saturday 1346hrs

This was the second aid station where supporters were allowed, and another of my drop bags was available. I repeated the foot maintenance routine, did a full change of clothes and brushed my teeth. After a good feed, I considered stopping for a short sleep, but decide I was ok to continue.

After a short hop to the pretty Tredos village, I joined the "Witches Trail", which tracked up the rocky river. It was clearly a popular visitor spot, but further up turned steep and rocky - presumably, this would deter casual walkers. The rapids continued for a long period, and the rocky woodland was beautiful. I found myself managing well enough to really start enjoying the surroundings, which had become more memorable and impressive than the morning trails. At the top of the many falls was a dam, and the trail passed along the side of the Barratge d'Aiguamog reservoir, where the clouds were tumbling down the mountain side.

The elevated valley was filled with trees and flowers. In contrast to the UK, in this hotter climate, it is the higher, cooler areas where the vegetation is at its most lush. The trail once again lined up alongside the river, but this time it consisted of big boulders. I enjoyed the stretch of rock-jumping.


Tredos village


Barratge d'Aiguamog reservoir

Lush flora up high

Leaping across rocks

Fun technical trails

Banhs de Tredos

67 miles, Saturday 1636hrs

The Banhs de Tredos aid station was out in a remote valley, accessible by track. The heat had returned as I closed in on it, just past 24 hours into the race. The volunteers were giving an enthusiastic applause to every runner arriving and departing. I was feeling a bit lost in my fuelling strategy, and vacantly took whatever food items I thought I could manage. I sat for a short while to cool off.

The landscape continued to become more dramatic and impressive as I climbed in this most remote section of the race. The scattered rocks grew bigger, and the jagged distant peaks came into clear view. 5pm passed, and my tired brain began to struggle a little to process what it saw. I'd have to look at some of the rocks for a few seconds to be sure of what I was looking at, as my brain was starting to fill blanks with nonsense. The terrain was getting increasingly technical so despite my weary state, I was having to place my feet carefully and balance well. As I scrambled over a minor rocky summit, the views opened out into the most stunning landscape of the race. There were tree-topped cliffs and huge stacked rocks, with lush, untouched vegetation filling every gap. My vision was still quite confused, yet at the same time I marvelled at the unreal landscape I was seeing. I kept pointing my phone to take photos. When I clicked at Lac du Cloto de Baish, I knew I'd just taken a very special picture. Even with my brain struggling to stay conscious and my eyeballs wanting to roll back into my head, I'd just taken a photo that would later make a large print for a wall at home.

The beautiful landscape and rocky trail continued for the next descent. I thought I'd seen the Colomers checkpoint, and felt relief at the opportunity for a stop, but it turned out to be a tent belonging to a pair of walkers. The actual checkpoint proved to be an uncomfortable further distance along the flat, towards the woods, and I was feeling frustrated. Nevertheless, I forced myself to keep some momentum with a jog.

Colomers

71 miles, Saturday 1834hrs

I'd started the race tired from several nights of poor sleep. It was starting to take its toll, and I was ready for the race to be over. I knew I had around six hours of running still ahead, around 35km, and at this point that felt like a lot. I had to settle in for the ride; I knew it wasn't going to be easy. The painkillers had mostly kept the pain at bay, but nothing was going to stop the impact of the tiredness. 

As I entered the woodland tracks, I was unsure what to expect next. I knew the final supporter aid station was at Arties, but I didn't know lay between me and there. I messaged Claire to find out, and it turned out that there was a further checkpoint at Mont-Romies. I guessed that to be a high stop and, as the path was skirting the side of the mountain, I assumed it would be a straightforward plod.

The path worked its way clockwise around the side of the mountain, retaining the same height. It was a rocky trail and, at points, going very close to exposed edges. It looked very disused and inaccessible, and yet there were places where humans had intervened with the rock formations to make shelters and even brick buildings, that we now crumbling. The terrain still gave the impression of being barely touched in many years. Eventually, it arrived at a first and then a second tunnel through the rock, and the circumnavigation continued. It felt like I'd been wrapping around this mountain for so long that I must have completed the circuit twice, and yet the checkpoint still didn't arrive. I was caught between being fascinated by the rocky terrain and dramatic drops but also desperate to reach the next milestone.

Salt d'aigua del riu d'Aiguamog

Circ de Colomers

Lac du Cloto de Baish, Circ de Colomers

Circ de Colomers

Circ de Colomers

Nearing Mont-Romies

One of two tunnels on the way round to Mont-Romies


Mont-Romies

78 miles, Saturday 2036hrs

The Mont-Romies aid station was at a small, old building where the volunteers had a barbecue warming outside for some big sausages they'd laid out. There was no such luxuries for the runners, much to my disappointment, nor a toilet. I once again filled my water bottles and carried on. Next up, after a descent, was a bigger aid station with hot food.

The trail immediately headed into the woods for the descent. It was a technical and awkward trail. After a while, I spotted a sign indicating a mountain bike route. Shortly after, we were on some steep singletrack, picking a very direct route downwards. It was tough on my sore knee, and the top of my right foot was feeling bruised from tightly laced shoes. I had to point my toes downwards, and despite using my usual "runner's knot" lacing to hold my heel back in my shoe, my toes were hitting the end of the shoes hard. I felt a pain in my left big toe, and I knew exactly what had happened - one big strike had just completely snapped my big toenail off at the base. There was nothing I could do, I just had to carry on. I didn't enjoy the descent; it was long, and continued to be horribly steep with no toe relief from rocks or steps.

Arties

80 miles, Saturday 2142hrs

I'd dropped around 800m in the descent from Mont-Romies to the Arties checkpoint. My knees weren't amused, and the effects of the painkillers were fading. My feet were even less amused, and my hip was causing pain. My mood was also descending as it had become harder to keep the necessary calories going in, and the tiredness was really hitting.

I'd messaged my support crew a couple of hours prior to check if there would be hot food at the finish. They had concluded not, so I asked if they could source a pizza. They already had my pizza when I arrived at Arties, and a few slices topped with pepperoni and anchovy were much preferable to a repeat of the same rice dish I'd had a the previous supporter stops. The calories helped my mood and my stomach. I didn't bother with a sock change - I dreaded the state of my left big toenail, and I didn't see the point, given around 12km remaining.

I scanned the elevation profile for the remainder of the race. There was one long ascent up to the final checkpoint, gaining around 583m. The final section had to shed all that elevation again, but threw in a not insignificant 148m of climbing in the middle. Both sections looked steep. I knew I was in for some suffering on that final descent.

I was focused on getting to the finish. As I worked along the initial flat stretch, I passed a couple of other runners. The trail turned sharply up a fairly steep climb, and I kept pushing. It rapidly got steeper, taking a straight line up the rocky hill through the woodland. The ascent was long, and just seemed to keep getting steeper until it was implausible that people would follow this path. At some points, it adopted a zig-zag to avoid the direct line, yet still seemed incredibly steep, and then would revert back to the brutal straight line up. I was so tired that I was staggering around, and yet I still passed a few others when they hesitated to keep moving forward. I had no plans to back off, and the other head torches were slipping behind, or rather below, me at some rate.

Approach Arties

Being told that I can make it

Santet d'Escunhau

84 miles, Saturday 2356 hrs

There was nothing to be accomplished by hanging around at the final checkpoint. I drank some water, then decided to ditch some of the weight of the additional fluids I was carrying. All that remained was a long descent with a short climb in the middle.

I knew that it was around 7km to the finish, which didn't seem too bad, even at this point. I also knew that I'd need to descend around 700m in a short space of time, which did seem bad. The pain relief was wearing off now, and my feet weren't in the best shape. My hip was sore, and my right hamstring, that had suffered in those early stages of knee difficulty, was complaining.

It didn't take long before the real challenge presented itself. We were once again on mountain bike trails, super-steep with no steps or rocks to avoid the toenail-smashing steepness. This was a real problem now; my left big toenail was in a bad way, and I had to tighten my shoe, but that didn't avoid it continuing to hit the end of the shoe. I couldn't tighten my right shoe, instead having to loosen it because bruising on the top was really painful. I really didn't want to worsen the damage, but the descent became unbelievably steep for this point in the race, and it just wouldn't end. Each time, after a slow and reluctant hobble down a steep stretch, I'd reach a fire road crossing, only to join the next section of steep descent. I was going really slowly, yet only a couple of people passed me.

A little earlier, I looked at the timings and whilst a midnight finish looked improbable, I thought 12:30am looked likely. As that time approach, I could tell I still had quite a way to go, and I could do nothing to speed it up. I could hear how close I was by the voice of the compere through the PA, and the applauding and cheering each time somebody crossed the finish line.

1am arrived, and I was still on the side of the hill, up in the woods. Suddenly, the town went silent. I guessed that they'd hit the noise curfew and it was obvious that by the time I arrived in the town, there wouldn't be much of a crowd and it would be a muted finish. My morale dropped further, and my frustrations with the steep trail increased - and now I was verbalising those frustrations to the darkness of the forest.

When the woodland trails finally spat me out, I was struggling with both pain and weariness, and it was hard to pick up any kind of jog. The signage became a little poor in the town, and when I found the barriers set out to funnel the runners through to the finish line, it wasn't even obvious where I should go. When I finally figured it out, I emerged onto the finish straight and saw just a few people lined up, including my support crew. I'll admit that it was a disappointing ending, and I wished I'd made it before 1am to finish with a cheer. A bell hung above the finish line, but it could not be rung as they'd removed the ringer; it felt like a metaphor for my success.

Finishing in silence

Post-race

My emotions were mixed as I hobbled in to the finish line aid station to have some food. I'd run the course, but it wasn't the intended course. I'd finished the race and earned my medal and UTMB stones, but I hadn't fulfilled my potential for position. It was my 7th finish out of 7 starts on the 100-mile distance, which is surely a rare statistic, and leaves my ability to endure in no doubt, but I was left wondering how I improve so that I can finish quicker and without the drama.

I have no regrets about taking on this race; it was worth pushing through the pain even just to experience the Circ de Colomers, 24 hours in - it was one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited. I will return, whether to race again or just to hike up and enjoy it without the hallucinations.



26 May 2025

Ultra Trail Snowdonia 100M 2025

 

  • Distance: 171km / 106 miles (tracked, missing final 100m)
  • Elevation: 10,0279m / 33,724 feet (tracked)
  • Elapsed Time: 44:19:23 (official)
  • Estimated calories: 17,163
  • Position: 96th
  • Total finishers (within 48-hour cutoff): 145, of 240 starters (40% DNF)
  • Ultra Trail Snowdonia homepage
  • Route map

Dropping off Glydr Fawr towards Devil's Kitchen


The preceding weeks

"Of course you can do it", Claire would reply each time I expressed my increasing nervousness as the race day neared. "You've done it before", she would say, drawing on the most concrete of evidence that this challenge was indeed within my capability. When I was eight weeks out, my confidence had been high from improved routines - regular strength training, regular short and long hikes and varying my running distance and speed. I was trying to address the shortcomings in my training from the previous year where I'd focused on weekly mileage, resulting in a one-dimensional approach. This time, I knew I had the endurance, and pushing the miles was less important than addressing my weaknesses - core strength, knee stability, glute strength, groin strength. Yet, it had been on my mind that my weekly mileage had been quite low, and I hadn't been doing big weekend runs with any regularity. Following the Arc in January, I'd kind of downed-tools.

Those final weeks of training, building up to the peak, and then tapering for the final three, seemed quite important this time. I needed those final big runs, complete with hills and difficult terrain, to sharpen my skills and build my confidence for what remains the hardest race on my calendar. This course is fierce by anybody's measure, and feared by many capable trail runners.

But the last weeks were chaotic; where I should have allowed time for those final key runs, I was hiking or doing family stuff. I'd managed a couple of visits to Snowdonia, but I really wanted to get two more big weekends in. Then injury hit. I paused the running for a week, but knee pain continued. A big hike didn't help, so another running week was lost. My final chance, three weeks out, for a visit to Snowdonia, and I had to cut the visit short to avoid worsening the situation.

With two weeks to go, and the peak phase of my training almost entirely missed, I went to the physio. I was downcast, mentally scribing the epitaph of my race entry, expecting to be advised that if I wanted to keep running at all, I should abandon this plan. I knew I had just a few days to make a claim on my event insurance policy if I was unable to compete, so a decision would have to be made. The physio made a basic assessment from my descriptions of the problem and some assessment of the origin of the pain, and advised that the tendons behind my knee were inflamed; a reduction in the load would help it heal. Crucially, this didn't present a risk of major injury if I were to take on the event. A green light.

One week to go, arriving at the threshold for an insurance claim, my knee had not improved, despite more rest. If anything, it had worsened. I faced the choice: reclaim some of my money, or hope it would heal and just head for the start line. For me, there was no decision to make; I'd give it a go. A short test a few days before race day, and the knee felt uncomfortable, but even worse, it felt unstable like it could just give up on me. My usual approach of talking myself through my reasons to be  confident wouldn't work this time; whatever I'd done right, this presented a big unknown.

Race day

Countering my feelings of doom, the forecast had been improving day-by-day. We'd headed over to Snowdonia the day before, knowing to expect a fully dry weekend with clear summits and sunshine. Given the difficulty level that precipitation or wet ground present on parts of this course, especially scrambling sections and large bogs, knowing it would be clear and dry underfoot from weeks of dry weather was a big boost. We woke up at our campsite to beautiful blue skies. Part of me didn't care about the race result; I'd still get a weekend in Snowdonia, and my knee would at least get me up to a few decent summits.

This time, my preparation had been much better; a few nights of decent sleep, my bags packed, checked and repacked over a few days, a nutrition plan and several modifications to my choices of kit. Some things were untested - new poles, a different pack with new bottles, new toe socks and some tape for blister protection, but it all felt like incremental improvements on things that have worked before. My two hopes were firstly that I'd suffer less fatigue if I started less tired, and secondly that I'd sustain a better pace if I could avoid blistering at least until the late stages of the race.

Event village at Llanberis

Support crew prep

Foot prep

Pre-race fuel


I took the time to enjoy my morning coffee. I was methodical with the organisation of my kit. I invested some effort in preparing my feet with tape and anti-blister cream. We were not rushed as we set off for Llanberis; we'd be early for registration, and have a few hours to bask in the sunshine before race start.

With kit checked and drop bag delivered, we soaked up the atmosphere and the rays in the festival village. I started fuelling with loaded fries topped with fried chicken. My knee felt better than at any time during the past few weeks, probably aided by the heat. My mind was no longer thinking in terms of how far I'd get; I was now targeting a finish. This was important; you can easily talk yourself out of a race but, for me, believing it is possible is key.


Leg 1: Llanberis - Pen-y-Pass


Start line

Llanberis path

Approaching turning to Pyg track (left) with Snowdon summit in view

The compere called for the runners of the 100-mile event to assemble at the start line. Learning from last year, I had taken note of where my supporters were stood so that I'd be able to spot them in the crowd and wave as I passed by. I was more relaxed than on previous occasions, feeling confident that I'd done all the necessary preparations and that my kit was in the right places.

The race began, and we funnelled on to the streets of Llanberis with crowds cheering. My legs didn't feel fresh after weeks away from running, so I wasn't trying to keep with the speedier runners and was slipping back from my starting position. As I warmed up, I picked up my pace a little and we started the first ascent of Snowdon. I got chatting with another runner, who observed that my pack looked pretty large and heavy - he'd thought I must be training for a multi-day endurance event and thus deliberately carrying more kit. In fact, I wasn't carrying much more than the mandatory kit; I was slightly confused at how so many runners had extremely slim packs. I wasn't concerned; if I could get around at all, I could still do it with this pack - I wasn't travelling any heavier than the previous hundred-milers I'd completed.

The sun was blazing as Snowdon summit came into view. We veered off down the Pyg track and some fun and slightly speedy descending ensued. I wasn't feeling at my best, but I was enjoying myself. My plan was to match my section timings from last year through the first half of the race, and gain time in the second half by checkpoint efficiency, good fuelling and better foot management.

I reached the first aid station feeling ok but hot. I'd been drinking according to my plan. I refilled my bottles and headed off.


Leg 2: Pen-y-Pass - Glan Dena


My support crew (Claire and Eva) waved me past at the road crossing. Claire let me know that I was already 20 mins ahead of last year, which came as a surprise. I pulled my poles out for the first serious climb. Glyder Fawr starts with some steep grassy slopes, progressing to rocky stuff further up. The heat was now intense, and I quickly began to feel it. As we reached the rocky scrambles, a discomfort in my stomach was worsening and I started to feel nausea building. I knew I couldn't ignore it; delaying would make it worse, and if this progressed my race could quickly be over. I looked for shade in the rocks, and with the race field still close together, I had to endure lots of people passing me as I sheltered and hoped my body could fend this off. I struggled to get fluids in, so tried to help my body by nibbling small amounts of food. I repeatedly tried to get moving again, but each time had to pause again due to the feelings of nausea. This wasn't good.

After repeated efforts at cooling, eating and drinking, the sickness eased just enough for me to do a slower plod up to the summit. I paused near the marshalls, packed up my poles and tried to take on a little more food and drink. I set off towards Devil's Kitchen feeling a little green, but running. Over the rocky stuff, I found my stride again, noticing my confidence relative to other runners - it was obvious that not everybody has the chance to train on such terrain. When we started the loose part of the descent, I was passing people who were nervous of a fall.

Devil's Kitchen starts on steep stepped rocks but gets more difficult with some bigger rocks that require clambering; other runners were letting me through as they cautiously figured out a way down. I was in my element, hopping down the rocks. As the path started to level, I picked up some speed, enjoying the skipping and twisting alongside Llyn Idwal. I copied another runner who'd dunked their cap in a stream to cool off. I'd hoped for a little boost from passing my support crew, but they were nowhere to be seen; I found out later that they'd been caught out by me being 30 minutes ahead of my estimated timing, and weren't there in time.


Ascending Glydr Fawr, and overheating

Approach Devil's Kitchen. Pen yr Ole Wen in view beyond Llyn Ogwen

I turned back away from the road at Llyn Ogwen, where the route heads up around the back of Tryfan, emerging at the far end of Llyn Ogwen to meet the Glan Dena checkpoint. The climb around Tryfan is notably steep and I was getting hot again. I knew where I could access the stream near a waterfall section, so veered off the path, got on my hands and knees, and got my head in the water. It felt really good, so I stayed for a few minutes, again wetting my cap and buff. 

As I reached the high point and turned round the back of Tryfan, I knew the heat was still getting to me. I was running ok, but slower, and my stomach didn't feel good. I kept it steady, kept the fluids going in, and focused on getting to the next checkpoint.

When I reached the road crossing before the checkpoint, Eva was waiting, holding her supporters sign for encouragement. She ran with me to the checkpoint, having just run 20 mins back to the car for my support bag. I headed for shade. As my mouth attempted to relay the challenges and struggled to communicate what I might want for fuel, I realised that my condition wasn't very good; the heat had continued to affect me. As I sat trying to eat, I started sobbing involuntarily. I couldn't rush here as I needed to cool down properly, and recover from some inadequate fuelling. I'd been drinking at the required rate, but I hadn't been managing to eat much. I was feeling quite negative, and vocalising my doubts that I could get round the course, even though I was still 15 mins ahead of last year's time. I stayed a while and forced some food down, and also got sprayed with water by a volunteer at the checkpoint. The next section was one of the longest in the race, so I needed to be ready.


Leg 3: Glan Dena - Llyn Eigiau

Pen yr Ole Wen is a fabulous challenge - a long, steep ascent up to 978m, with fun scrambling along the way. It is followed by a traverse around the edge above Ffynnon Llugwy, over Carnedd Fach, Carnedd Dafydd and reaching Carnedd Llewelyn at 1064m, near enough matching the height of Snowdon. The revised race route for this year would drop off over Foel Grach, taking a mostly grassy descent to Llyn Eigiau.

I was having fun up the scrambles of Pen yr Ole Wen. The scenery was glorious under the blue skies. I was keeping good momentum once heading around the top, and my mood was positive. As I skipped over an awkward rock field, I reflected that my knee was working, I'd fixed my nausea and I was properly in this race now, enjoying myself and probably able to finish it.

Scrambling up Pen yr Ole Wen


Pen yr Ole Wen, looking back to Tryfan and Devil's Kitchen (the corner in shadow)

Pen yr Ole Wen, looking over to Conwy Bay

Technical terrain near Carnedd Llewelyn

On Carnedd Llewelyn

Choosing a spot to fall over

Seconds after getting off the rock field and onto the grass, my knees slammed down hard and I hit the deck. Typically, on the less challenging terrain, I'd stopped concentrating and tripped on a small rock. I had sharp pain in both knees. I got up and forced myself to move because I didn't want to seize up and get in more bother. That wasn't so easy, and my first attempts at running were aborted. I felt sick with the pain, but I'd landed on grass so I believed nothing was broken. After a few minutes of walking I went back to a slow jog. I was angry with myself for letting this happen, but also thankful it hadn't happened on the rocks.

As I neared Foel Grach, I spotted a large group with rucksacks on. From the branding on their shirts, I knew they were an adventure group that my brother in law was with for the weekend. I stopped and asked them if he was there. A marshall overheard, and said he'd left an hour prior. I was unlikely to catch him, but it was nice to know I'd crossed paths.

The long descent was dull but easy, and I was moving well again. I passed quite a number of people who were fading with the heat and probably from dehydration over the long section. I'd continued to stay on target with both drinking and eating and felt pretty good. I pushed to keep good momentum all the way down, even though the descent felt frustratingly long.

I mostly keep myself to myself in these runs. I have the odd chat, but refrain from getting too engaged in long chats whilst running as I want to manage my pace. I like dealing with the challenge in my own head. I exchanged words with various runners as I passed, by had no plans to hang around as I pushed to get to the aid station.

I made a fairly quick stop at the marquee by Llyn Eigiau. I was the first to break the seal on the hot chocolate; I find hot drinks useful for variety, to settle the stomach and get some calories in. Hot chocolate seemed like a good option at this point. I wasn't really enjoying the limited selection of snacks, but kept forcing the Naak waffles and energy bars in, in small morsels. I was aware that the next section wasn't particularly long or difficult, but it could take a few hours so I should still take care to properly refuel.



Leg 3: Llyn Eigiau - Capel Curig


Llyn Eigiau in the distance

Wild ponies playing at Llyn Eigiau

Heading in to dusk at Llyn Cowlyd

With headtorch on, I headed out in the rapidly disappearing daylight. Given the less obvious route through the heather, having my head torch pick out the reflective flags made things easier. As I passed the end of Llyn Cowlyd, rejoining the 2024 route, I checked my watch and established that I'd slipped behind last year's timings. No matter, this was a long race, but I'd definitely lost ground through nausea and consequent time spent at checkpoints.

When I hit the road at Capel Curig, I expected to find a checkpoint. After a brief stint along the tarmac, the signs took us off into the woods. I paused and chatted to another runner. We were both confused that we hadn't reached the checkpoint. We weren't aware of a venue change, but there had been no indication of it on the road, and the GPS plot didn't indicate that either. We followed the course markings into the woods, but I didn't see how it could be out here as we were heading into the inaccessible woods below Moel Siabod. I phoned the race director's number, and the responder eventually confirmed that we should continue on our course. It turned out that the route stayed low in the woods, and the venue was a building near the outdoor centre, on the opposite side of the lake. There must be an access route to that land that I wasn't aware of, above the lake.

Capel Curig was the first big maintenance stop - I would do foot care, sock and t-shirt change and eat a hot meal. I set about the tasks with purpose. The veg curry was good, and I also had a coffee. I determined that the toe socks I'd been testing were working well, so after cleaning and re-lubing my feet, I put on a fresh pair.


Leg 4: Capel Curig - Dolwyddelan

Moel Siabod is a significant climb, reaching 872m. In this direction, the ascent presents no technical difficulty- that is saved for the descent. I was in clear air for most of the ascent, enjoying being in my own thoughts. I was looking forward to the descent, but not feeling particularly nimble. After the long trudge up, I said hello to the marshalls at the summit, confirming that I was fine. I set about the difficult scrambling of the descent. I was quickly irritated by the poor course-marking; last year it was mostly good (with one exception, mentioned in my post). This year, every time I arrived at a flag, I couldn't see the next, and found myself weaving around to find it. The route down is not obvious, and there are big drops to the left, so this was unhelpful. I wasn't as agile with the descent as usual, and felt like I was making hard work of it.

I was glad when the route started levelling out. The varied woodland section was interesting, and then began the plod down the fire roads. I didn't mind such tedium today, and just settled in to a rhythm. I knew it wasn't very long until the checkpoint. Other runners around me were fading now that we were into the early hours; it is a difficult time to keep going.

My mood had dipped a bit by the time I hit the checkpoint. I was a bit irritated by a wait for the toilet, the limited seating in the room and the lack of decent food options. I pushed myself to eat and drink a bit, but didn't stay long. I wanted to stay on my timings, and was targeting a sleep at or near the next checkpoint at Blaeneau Ffestiniog.


Leg 5: Dolwyddelan - Blaeneau Ffestiniog

It was a quiet trudge up and over the moor at Y Ro Wen. The lack of rain in recent weeks made it less of an ordeal as the path passes over much boggy grassland. Today, it was almost dry. Daylight gradually emerged, but the air was still cool. When the first remnants of the old quarry came in to view, I was still feeling ok - no desperation to be at the checkpoint, no urgent need to sleep. It wasn't really warm enough for an outdoor sleep, so I kept plodding along.

The route from the disused Cwt-y-bugail quarry down to Maen-offeren is interesting, and the reservoir can be beautiful, but is also usually a boggy mess of a trail. Not so this time, my feet were staying dry.

Ascending the moor to Y Ro Wen, in the early hours

Descending to Blaeneau Ffestiniog, early morning. Moelwyn Mawr in the distance

As I worked my way through the town just before 06.00, it became apparent that the checkpoint venue had changed here also. I tried to contact Claire to make sure she'd found the new location. She was asleep back at the campsite, having had an alarm failure.

The checkpoint was in a building with a big hall. There were some sofas available, so I grabbed a spot to attempt a 15 min sleep. It didn't really work, but my eyelids had rested. I tried getting food in, but once again was struggling with the lack of savoury options. I ate whatever I could, then got moving again.


Leg 6: Blaeneau Ffestiniog - Croesor

I was feeling a bit weary, but certainly in better shape that the previous year, where the combination of sleep deprivation and poor fuelling had left me feeling awful. The day was warming up, and I had to peel off layers as I worked my way up the old quarries from Tanygrisiau. The scale of the quarries above Cwmorthin is immense. I picked my way up the slate climbs and inbetween the old buildings until I was finally back out onto the moorland.

There were quite a number or runners nearby as I traversed the side of the hill at Llyn Stwlan. We ascended the awkward scramble up Moelwyn Mawr in formation. Arriving at the top, the views were stunning but the wind was also strong. I took care along the narrow edge.

Cwmorthin Quarry

Llyn Stwlan

Moelwyn Mawr

I knew only too well what was to come next. The drop down to Croesor first means a very direct drop down some steep grassy slopes. With no blisters yet but sore knees, I took them on with a gentle patter. I was moving well, but it wasn't comfortable. the final part of the steep descent is what must be some old quarry track - a raised path heading straight down the contours, with patches of slate on it. It is a fierce descent by any measure, hard on the knees and torturous to blisters. Yet today, it wasn't causing my the problems of the previous year or indeed the recce visits I'd made. It didn't seem a long time before I was turned on to the farm track to jog down to the checkpoint. Another runner I'd been exchanging comments with as we descended was content to walk from that point, but I stuck with my plan to run whenever I could; I kept up a jog until I arrived at the building.

I was passed my drop bag by a marhsall, headed inside and found a seat. The checkpoint was busy, and people waited for hot food to become available. As I waited, I sorted through my kit. It was time for a change of clothes, some food maintenance, device-charging and swapping items between my drop bag and my race pack. This all took a long while, but was essential stuff. The hot and spicy curry went down surprisingly well, and I had several drinks. My feet were still in good shape, and were treated to a clean, lube and fresh socks.


Leg 7: Croesor - Gwastadannas

I looked forward to the climb and scramble over Cnicht; it is a fun and dramatic peak, giving some amazing views back over Moelwyn Mawr. The approach was longer than I remembered, and less interesting, but the climb itself gets more fun as you get nearer the summit.

I was far less excited about the tedious trudge over the moorland, passing Moel Meirch, and arriving at the Nant Gwynant valley. It is an often pathless stretch, picking over grassy and boggy moorland, and the landscape seems to repeat itself many times over. It was mercifully dry, yet no more interesting than usual. I found myself in clear air again, and was probably talking to myself a bit too much. When I finally started descending with some familiar hills in view, I also spotted runners ahead. Aiming to catch and pass them provided me with some motivation and relieved the boredom.

My support crew greeted me at the road with a quick hello. They thought I'd gone off course due to my location tracking, but it must have been inaccuracies of positioning under the trees. The final stretch along tarmac to the checkpoint was equally as boring as I remembered. I was slowing and in need of a break.

The heat had built up again and I knew I needed to cool off. I'd found a couple of opportunities to dunk my cap and buff, so had kept things under control, but time in shelter at the checkpoint would help. My fuelling efforts had continued to be good, but topping up fluids and eating extra food at the stop were important to get me back on track.

Leg 8: Gwastadannas - Beddgelert

The heat was stifling as I picked through the woodland above Llyn Gwynant. Once out of the woods, I had to take every opportunity to cool at a stream. I was going pretty slowly and my mood had dropped. My support crew found me for a hello as I crossed the road between the lakes. It was a rare, runnable section of the race, but I was lacking energy and was fighting to stay cool. Little had changed when I reached the bottom of Llyn Dinas, the foot of the climb over to Aberglaslyn. The climb was a slow plod, and I was leaning hard in to my poles. As I reached the top, feeling battered by the heat, my heart sank as I really wasn't ready for a downhill run. I took it on with some reluctance, my knees objecting to any complicated footing. The heat was still getting to me, and I was keen to find the waterfall I knew was near the bottom.

Approach Cnicht

Cnicht, looking back to Moelwyn Mawr and the steep-sided hill I'd dropped down

Cnicht, looking over Croesor to Tremadoc Bay

When I found the waterfall, it was more awkward to get to than I remembered, and my tired legs didn't fancy the scramble down. I figured there would be a stream opportunity, so I held out. I reached the car park at the bottom, and wrapped round to follow the river along the beautiful slate trail. I was overheating, and should be grabbing the chance to cool, yet somehow I passed on each chance. The clear pools in the river looked so inviting, but any awkwardness to get to the water was deterring me. I'd almost missed every chance as I neared the river crossing point at the old railway. Then I spotted a route to the water and took it. I felt self-conscious as I stumbled near a couple playing by the water. I awkwardly got onto my knees at the edge of the water and tried to stick my arms and the top of my head in. It was proving difficult on the uncomfortable pebbles, but I just about managed. What I really wanted to do was swim.

A bit cooler but still feeling weary, I plodded on to the town where I met my supporters. We made our way along to the aid station. Feeling pretty despondent, I was slow doing my normal checkpoint tasks. I was forcing myself to eat and drink, knowing it would help the situation. With the prospect of the brutal Moel Hebog, the insanely steep climb to the Nantle ridge and some scrambling to come, I was doubting my ability to finish the race. There was such a long way still to go, and so many difficult climbs. Considering what was still to come, I decided to make my sock change earlier than planned - it was better to defend my foot condition now and stand a chance of running the last parts of the race. As yet, I still had no blisters.


Leg 9: Beddgelert - Rhyd-Ddu

The fuelling efforts at the CP were still taking effect. I carried half a banana with me, as I had on exit of a number of checkpoints - a few more easily digested calories. After the plod through the farm and across a field, I reached the foot of Moel Hebog. There is no gentle introduction with this climb - you are quickly launched into a steep grassy climb. As you climb, the full challenge starts to reveal itself as the terrain turns rocky. The race route is relentlessly steep as it picks a very direct course up involving scrambling up some big rocks and handling scree.

The calories must have kicked in some way up the climb as my mood was returning. I chatted to another runner a bit on the higher sections. They were unsure of the route, but I was pretty confident on where I was meant to be going and pressed on. As the hill rolled off at the top, my running legs had returned, and I was gearing up for the descent.

I briefly took in the views from the top. Beddgelert looked a very long way down after a relatively short period of time; it sits a little above sea level, with Moel Hebog summit at 782m. The views were stunning, with the sea and beaches of Tremadoc Bay visible beyond to the south, and the sharp summit of Moel Siabod easily identifiable to the north-east.

Approaching Moel Hebog

Scrambling on Moel Hebog

Moel Hebog, looking over Beddgelert and Llyn Dinas to Moel Siabod

Starting the descent off Moel Hebog towards the Nantle Ridge

Below Moel Lefn

Descending Moel Lefn to Princess Quarry

Looking towards the Nantle Ridge. The steepness is lost in this picture

Pressing on to finish Nantle Ridge in daylight

Nantle Ridge

Looking back at the scramble over Mynydd Drws-y-Coed

Knowing I had left the checkpoint at least 20 minutes behind my 2024 timing, I had started feeling concern about the latter part of this leg; between Mynydd Drws-y-Coed and Y Garn, at the end of the Nantle ridge, was some difficult scrambling on an exposed section. It is always a challenge in the dry, but more so in the wet and/or dark. Whilst dry today, my current timing meant I could be facing it in the dark. This gave me sufficient motivation to keep up a brisk pace.

I cut my conversations with the other runner short, and set about getting off the hill as rapidly as my knees would allow. I was faring better than last year, without question - my feet were in good shape, and my knees were working ok. I enjoyed picking over the relatively straightforward but interesting Moel yr Ogof and Moel Lefn, on my own in the quiet hills now. As on previous visits, I found myself fascinated by the beautiful, abandoned Princess Quarry - nature has taken over and at this time of year there are all sorts of plants and flowers dominating the landscape. It is clearly not a well-trodden area.

After skipping round the rocky curve below Y Gyrn, some race marshalls came into view. They offered me water refills, but I needed nothing as I'd left the last stop with full bottles. I told them of my ambition to do the ridge in daylight, and pressed on. The two-part climb up to Trum y Ddysgl is shockingly steep, though straightforward on grass. It didn't phase me, I was pushing to get round this section. As I neared the scrambling section, the sun began to disappear below the horizon. There was still sufficient daylight, and I kept moving as well as I could. My confidence on the rocks was slightly limited by feeling a bit too stiff to be agile, but I was doing ok - probably better than on my recce visit. I took care on the more exposed bits, ensuring good grip with my hands and sure footing.

The sun had gone out of sight for the final technical bit, but I was able to get to Y Garn in daylight, and only put on my head torch as I started the descent. I called Claire, and told her to look out for my torch from her position at the checkpoint. I was probably an hour away, but she'd have a clear view up to Y Garn. My sustained push along the ridge had put me in clear air, and I was the only torch up high, so she immediately spotted me. Eva flashed a torch back at me from the checkpoint. The descent felt as fierce and hard on my toes as on previous visits, but the dry ground made it significantly easier to negotiate. I knew I'd killed off a little toe nail at some point during the race; it is very hard to prevent your toes bashing the end of your shoes on such descents.

The plod along the flat before the aid station was boring. There was now a long line of headtorches working their way down the hill behind me. I was ready for a break and some hot food. I was in relatively decent shape when I arrived, but I needed to get a lot of calories in. I had a couple of bowls of leek and potato soup, which also helped with rehydration. I chatted to a fellow runner from my village who was crewing for a friend. I discovered that there were beds available, and decided that I'd do an earlier sleep this time, to try and set myself up better for the Snowdon climb; I put my head down for 10 mins.



Leg 10: Ryhd-Ddu - Bron-y-Fedw uchaf

I didn't come away from the sleep feeling fresh. Compared to last year, when I motored up the second Snowdon climb with strength, despite blistered feet, today I was feeling very weary. I was quite grumpy, and felt too familiar with this climb. In the day, it offers stunning views back to Moel Hebog and the surrounding hills. At night, there is nothing to see except the loose stones in front of you, and the stream of headtorches a long way up the mountain. It seemed like a very long plod, and I found myself irritated by the loose rocks as I tried to use my poles to propel myself. As I reached the edge at Llechog, there was a strong breeze and it was cooler than before. I had closed in on some other runners as I reached Bwlch Main, and passed some on the final stretch before the visitor centre at the summit.

This was a key moment in the race as I recalled where last year's race got very tough indeed - at 82 miles into the race, my feet were sufficiently blistered that I couldn't run downhill at all, and just keeping moving was painful. No such problems today, I set off downhill with a modest run. My knees were allowing some skipping around on the rocks, and I found myself going quicker than a lot of the 100km runners who had also joined this route at Snowdon summit.

Approaching the visitor centre at Snowdon summit

As I descended with many other runners around me, the temp rapidly warmed, now we were away from the exposed top. My momentum was reducing and I started feeling fatigued. In a mirror image of last year, by the time we peeled off the Rhyd-Ddu track and onto private farmland, where the slope began to ease, my running legs had departed. Where last year I'd picked up a jog and determinedly held it all the way to the checkpoint, this time I'd had enough for this leg and was reduced to a walk. As we'd neared the grasslands, the temperature had very noticeably dropped, and it was cold. By distance, it was 2 miles from departing Rhyd-Ddu to reaching the checkpoint, but it felt a horribly long way at walking pace. I could see the lights from a long way off, but I couldn't muster a run to finish the job.

It was really cold in the valley, and marquee retained almost no heat. I had to dig out my gilet to wear while I was stopped. After picking at some food, I decided I was weary enough that another sleep would help. I opted for 10 mins on one of the beds. I must have drifted off as my alarm woke me. I felt awful, and ready to plunge into the deepest of sleeps. I snoozed my alarm for another 10 mins, but after 4 mins my brain told me this wouldn't help - my body wanted to abandon now, but that wasn't an option. I dragged myself up and quickly got prepped to leave the checkpoint.



Leg 11: Bron-y-Fedw uchaf - Betws Garmon

I set off from the checkpoint with layers on, but feeling really cold. I knew that a solid stint of running would sort that out, so I set a decent pace. Many 100km runners were now mixed in with the 100m competitors, and I was passing people along the road before we entered the woods. Knowing there was a stretch of single track, I pushed to get in clear air. It worked well as I found myself alone again through the woods and moving well.

The grassy climbs up Mynydd Mawr are brutally steep and unforgiving. The only thing to do was keep good momentum. The sun started to appear as I was on the higher part of the climb. Once over the top, I knew I only had a couple or so miles to the checkpoint, and after the descent it was just a plod along the grassy flats. My knees were supporting me well, and I was doing ok descending the steep trail, but my brain was starting to shut down as tiredness kicked in. I repeatedly stopped and stood for a moment, and I think I was actually falling asleep, only to be woken as I started to topple over. But each time, I was able to start running again. As I reached the lower part of the climb, my brain lost the ability to process what it was seeing. I spotted something large on a grassy mound, which I could only identify as some kind of disused space craft or 1990s Japanese MPV. I knew it was a big rock, but I just couldn't see it as that. I'd spot objects in the path, and be completely unable to identify them.

Mynydd Mawr, approach sunrise

The bog at the foot of the climb was not much of a challenge after all the dry weather. Likewise, the marshy section over to Tyddyn Bach presented no issues, or not to me at least - I found myself passing a group who seemed to be far too worried about the possibility of a wet foot. Not long after the woodland section, Bryn Gloch campsite came into view. My support crew were staying at the site, and waved to me as I arrived - I just about figured out it was them. I was a little confused about how to get to the site, with a river inbetween us; it wasn't how I remembered.

I entered the checkpoint at 0530, having to organise myself without my supporters due to race rules. I must have looked a bit wrecked by this point. I was struggling to identify my checkpoint tasks; when the volunteer asked what I wanted in my bottles, I couldn't really answer, and I faffed around trying to figure out how to get Tailwind powder in to a couple of the bottles. I couldn’t seem to manage this simple task, so gave up and asked for water in one bottle and coke in the other. I made some efforts to eat as I needed some calories to get me to the end, but didn't worry too much this time.


Leg 12: Betws Garmon - Llanberis

It was a chilly morning, but pushing to run the section of ascent to the woodland helped me warm up, and I stopped to strip off my jacket. The entrance to the woodland was covered in chopped pine, which was a bit of a hazard. However, getting through the woodland seemed a bit easier than the previous year. I emerged on to the fields moving well, and tried to keep my momentum. By the time I reached the quarry at Bwlch-y-groes, I needed to go back from leggings to shorts, so stopped to prep for the final miles.

Garreg-fawr near Betws Garmon. The tree-felling made for interesting running

Views ascending Moel Eilio

The first false summit of Moel Eilio

Descending Moel Eilio

Heading towards Foel Gron, looking over Llyn Dwythwch with Llanberis in view to the left

It was a stunning bright morning as I hit the first slopes of Moel Eilio. Last year, in blazing sunshine, I'd paused and lay down on the course here, and fallen fully asleep. I was taking no such chances today, keeping a jog along the flat, and a purposeful walk as I took on the climb. It is a demoralising 1.5 mile grassy climb, with repeated false summits. My relief at reaching the top was premature; my simplistic view of the remainder of the course was that I'd now drop down steeply to the tracks of the Afon Arddu valley that lead back to Llanberis. I'd forgotten about Foel Gron and Foel Goch.

I was pleased with my purposeful descent off Moel Eilio. My knees and feet had let me run down well. When I saw runners ahead going up another climb, I realised I wasn't done yet. I figured there must be one more small climb, so I kept running where I could, and walked up the fairly steep climb. Another ascent, which I thought definitely must be the last, but it was the same thing again. I didn't bother to check my map, and just pressed on up the third climb. This time, I knew it was the last; I recognised the stony bits of the descent, and could see the track crossing ahead. Last year I'd lost several places as runners passed me down the final steep descent, my blisters making it almost impossible to get off the hill. This time, it was me passing other runners, with strength in my knees and confidence in my footing. It didn't take long. When I arrived at the Llanberis track, I felt a sense of relief that I'd done it; the only thing left was a plod down to the finish.

Understandably, many runners struggle with this final section due to fatigue and any other ailments they are carrying, finding themselves walking even though it is an easy track and a light descent. Last year, with heavily blistered feet, I held a gentle run for the last three and a bit miles to the finish, despite the constant pain. There was no question this year - I'd be running all the way. Other runners around me seemed a bit surprised, and I disappeared off from several of them. I was passing more and more people with the very steady jog I was holding. One seemed to take exception, and came firing back past me, only to revert to a walk ahead. Of course, I passed him again, and he made a slightly disgruntled comment about me overtaking, not realising were weren't even in the same event. He seemed to have forgotten it was a race, and his manners.

My timing for the final road descent to the town was perfect - the 25km event had just started, and so the entire field came past me. Seeing my name badge and the event I was on, they gave a lot of encouragement, saying "go on Sam" and applauding. I arrived on the streets of the town feeling strong. The marshalls directed me on to the road going round the back of the slate museum. This was a little sting in the tail as I (and other runners, I later found out) thought I was done. After the extra little loop, I mustered the energy for a speedy run through the finish line. I was directed through to collect my medal. I found some shade, sat on the grass and stripped my shoes and socks off.

I'd knocked 40 mins off my previous year's time, despite being 30 mins behind at Rhyd-Ddu; I'd made up time on each of the final three legs. I felt a slight disappointment as something significantly better seemed possible this weekend, but these races are complex; a lot of elements need to come together. Despite disrupted training, and knee injury, heat-induced nausea and a fall on the course, I'd got round confidently and beaten my time. 100-miler #6 in the bag, a PR and some more UTMB stones earned to help me get a place on the flagship race next year. And I'd finished without a single blister.

Finishing strong


UTMB Val d'Aran 100M 2025

  Distance: 147km / 91 miles Elevation: 7,148m / 23,451 feet (tracked) Elapsed Time: 33:29:47 (official) Estimated calories: 13,198 Position...