A false start
The race had started, and the pack of runners was moving up the Llanberis path towards Snowdon summit. I was nervous, hoping that my preparation had been adequate and that everything was in place. It wasn't long before I arrived at the first checkpoint. The setup was different to last year; this time we entered a tent, rather than the outdoor drink refills. It was already dark outside. My feet were feeling very sore from that first leg, so I decided to do some foot maintenance. I slipped off my shoes, then set about locating my medical kit, which was somewhere in a dry bag in my pack. With the tight cutoffs at each checkpoint, I was concerned to be losing time already, and was in a rush to get moving again as soon as possible. I went to grab my shoes, but they weren't there. I looked around, but couldn't see them anywhere. Someone had stolen my shoes. Who the hell steals smelly running shoes? I was panicked and in disbelief. This race had cost a huge amount of my time and effort and a sizeable chunk of money, and was now falling apart right at the start. I didn't know what to do, I was about to have to set off barefoot. Then my alarm woke me, and it was time to pack my stuff up and get to Llanberis.
| Race start in Llanberis |
All-consuming
Big races consume you, for a while. As the number of days until the start line ticks away, prioritisation of life's concerns steadily shifts towards the immovable target. You must be on that start line, with everything in place. There are mandatory equipment requirements to meet - things need to be bought, and you need to figure out what to carry and how. Fuelling plans are necessary. The logistics are complex when the race spans days, with travel, accommodation, timings; you need a detailed plan of what and who is going to be where, and when. Discussions are required to play through potential scenarios, and considerations, with mitigations for things that could go wrong. You need to prepare yourself physically - the training may be tapering off, but sleep is required. Ideally, some consideration would also be given to food and drink choices over a period of days, though on this point I've usually run out of mental capacity to address it.
As the pack of runners sets off across the start line, I find the importance of everything that I've done, or not done, in preparation for the race plays through my mind; the choices and efforts over the previous weeks are now immutable. The challenge is to execute, adapt, and persevere. Over many hours, the way I thought the race might play out is unlikely to be reflected in the reality. I find myself troubleshooting repeatedly, just to keep the show on the road. As the adversity ramps up, and a fatigued body and mind are put to the test, my motivation is questioned. Why am I doing this? It might be true to say that a lot of the many hours on the trails, at best, have their enjoyment muted by discomfort or pain; it is probably true to say many are simply not enjoyable at all. But those hours are not fighting for attention, they have it in full. I am there to do one thing, and it is all I think about.
The race has me in its clutches for those hours, and nothing else is allowed to matter. It is only in the post-race decompression that I start to realise how much I've been consumed by it all. Having the chats, reliving moments with friends and acquaintances, chatting on forums, trying to convey to the non-runners what these ultra things actually are, and that is the fun. It is a huge, immersive, and overwhelming experience that blasts everything else out of your brain in a way that no package holiday will. The medal may be a pathetic token, but what it represents is huge - the achievement of something out of the ordinary, something that most would consider unachievable. It is addictive and, in the weeks following, I find myself wanting to relive not so much the race but the whole experience, however challenging, gruelling or painful.
Motivation
This is the first time I've been clear that I'm done with a race. This time, it tested my motivation to the limit. It has clarified that I have an exceptional ability to subdue pain and push through the mental challenges to reach the finish goal, but as Damian Hall frequently emphasises, you need to know your "why". It remains the hardest race on my calendar, and is often cited as the hardest 100-miler in the UK, possibly Europe. With two finishes from two starts, in 2024 and 2025, my "why" was definitely getting questioned. I needed the motivation distilled, to carry me in the dark hours of the race. Pinning my hopes on a personal best time seemed too risky - my training had been patchy due to injury, and I was still unconvinced of my knee's ability to complete it. Once a PB is off the cards, during the race, it can all come crashing down if you've run out of other strong reasons to suffer. I'd had 3 DNFs at other races, and no finishes, since last July. I wanted to break the streak, on my hardest race; 3/3 on this one would feel like something extra special. It would also mean extra UTMB points, increasing my chance of getting a place on the flagship Mont Blanc race. It would be my 10th 100-mile start, and could be my 8th 100-mile finish. But it was the 3/3 that stuck out; on such a difficult race, with a 50-60% DNF (did not finish) rate, it seems unlikely that the number of 3-time finishers has reached double digits, if it has been done at all. That was the target in the front of my mind when I set off for Wales.
Race day
Pre-race
Compared to previous years, it had been a relatively relaxed start to Friday, the race day. We'd stopped over at a different campsite this time - Tan-aeldroch, near Dolwyddelan, and had arrived late at night. The morning greeted us with beautiful sunshine, revealing a stunning location in the valley with a stream running through the site. After breakfast and coffee, we left the campsite, a little later than intended. We were not going to be in Llanberis for the start of my registration window, 1000-1200, but it didn't matter; we were still in plenty of time, and the race was to start an hour later than previously, at 1400. I wasn't even too worried when I realised we'd driven 5 minutes in the wrong direction - it gave a chance for me to point out the Dolwyddelan checkpoint location to Claire, my wife and support crew (along with Nala, our dog), in preparation for her night support duties.
I was confident in my kit preparation; I had everything on the list, checked and double-checked, and organised into shopping bags for the contents of my race pack and belt, my half-way drop-bag and a support bag for Claire to bring to the checkpoints that allowed support crew. I headed for the marquee with my race pack contents, very familiar with the UTMB kit check and registration process. Once equipped with race bib and tracker, I had a few hours to spend at the event village. For once, I felt relaxed enough to savour the moment, enjoy the build-up, and spend money on kit and merchandise at the stalls. I even had time to sit and chat to a friend, Chris, and eat a nice lunch from one of the food vans.
| Tan Aeldroch campsite |
The weather had decided to be kind, while we were awaiting the race start; those few hours were spent in sunshine, as with previous years, but I was under no illusions - this was not going to be a dry race. The forecast had indicated rainfall through much of the weekend, with temps falling to low single digits on the peaks overnight. This left me a little unsure about what to wear for those first few hours - it was unclear whether shorts or longs were the best option. I made a last minute decision to switch to shorts, given it was still warm and we were heading up Snowdon first, but it seemed likely I'd be changing again relatively soon.
Leg 1: Llanberis - Pen-y-Pass
Friday 1400hrs, 0 miles
Leg 2: Pen-y-Pass - Glan Dena
Friday 1544hrs, 12km
| On the Glyders |
Leg 3: Glan Dena - Llyn Eigiau
Friday 1740hrs, 21.1km
| That photo of Tryfan |
| Steep scrambling up Pen Yr Ole Wen |
| Looking onwards from Carnedd Dafydd |
| Carnedd Llewellyn summit |
Leg 4: Llyn Eigiau - Capel Curig
Friday 2050hrs, 37.3km
Leg 5: Capel Curig - Dolwyddelan
Friday 2259hrs, 49.5km
I got some hot food (probably pasta) and a coffee down. The timing of this stop is important, falling late in the evening; it is a chance to sort yourself out for the overnight running - refuelled, clean feet and fresh socks, and any other bodily maintenance to ease the challenge of running when your body starts to resist the idea. I was 1.5 hours ahead of last year (adjusted for the different start time), an hour ahead of my optimistic schedule, and a full 4 hours ahead of the checkpoint cutoff. Things were going very much according to plan.
I embarked on the hike up through the woods to join the trail up to Moel Siabod. It felt even more familiar this time, having hiked over in the opposite direction just a few weeks prior. I was very much in my thoughts, as usual, reasoning about life and motivations. As I joined the trail, I wasn't feeling quite as strong as I hoped. I was, once again, in clear air, pleased for the solitude. I knew some runners were a little way behind, and hoped that keeping a steady pace would avoid me ending up alongside. There are times in a race where it is nice to chat, and others where I just want the space to think or not think. I was pleased when I got out of the woods, onto some clear trail and could see that I was actually in a very big gap with nobody close in either direction. I was very steadily closing in on the runners ahead.
The weariness of the night was beginning to hit a little earlier than usual, as I reached the summit. I was looking forward to descending the scramble over Daear Ddu, which was steep and technical. Today, I was seizing up a bit, not feeling fresh in my limbs, and my mood had sunk a bit. I was frustrated that the course marking was even worse this year, on a section where I would consider it to be essential. Even knowing the course, I was drifting off the line, unable to see the next flag. Other runners were convinced the route was more to the left or right, and ended up on more difficult scrambles. Despite my stiffness, I was relatively quick and passing a bunch of people, finding clear air again as the trail levelled out, at least until I had to make an emergency detour into the woods.
| Checkpoint at Dolwyddelan |
The fire tracks were tedious, but I brought to them the same resolve as last year - keep running until the checkpoint. Such straight, easy trails are a great measure of your condition, by which I mostly mean your mental state resulting from fuelling. That is, if I find myself walking on a trail that is easily runnable, most likely feeling negative and grumpy, I know something is wrong, and that something will only be fixed by food and drink. No problem this time - I'd been forcing the Tailwind drink down, and periodically taking a gel or energy bar. I knew that being fuelled meant being quick.
Leg 6: Dolwyddelan - Blaeneau Ffestiniog
Saturday 0224hrs, 60km
This year, I'd changed the race and support plans I'd made with Claire - we'd decided that, given she didn't have children in tow, she'd support at the overnight stops too. With the timings of the checkpoints that allow support, she'd otherwise not see me much, so whilst not the most fun for her, it meant her support would give a bigger boost to my race. I decided to capitalise by running lighter; previously, I'd treated her support as non-essential, carrying what I needed and putting anything additional in my half-way drop bag - this meant that, in the event of car issues or other problem, it wouldn't derail my race. This time, I'd let her carry some stuff including additional food and clothes changes, which meant I was just a little lighter on the trail.
It was good to see Claire at the checkpoint, which was outdoors in a tent this time. I was still doing well on timings, but as it approached 0230, I was starting to feel tired. My stomach had been starting to feel bad, hence my forest detour. I managed to shovel in a couple of portions of rice pudding, hoping the fatty calories would help get me straight. My knee had started complaining, and a previous attempt at using Rock tape had failed, so I put on the support sleeve Claire had in her bag. I wasn't feeling hugely revived, but nothing was going to fix it right now so I decided to press on, knowing a short sleep would be possible at dawn when I reached Blaeneau Ffestiniog.
Conditions weren't too bad over the often marshy Y Ro Wen. I recalled a previous recce visit and race where it had been seriously muddy, but today I wasn't getting too wet, and had an easier time following the trail than previously. This bit of the route is not on a footpath, rather on access land, following an ancient trail over the bleak moorland. Wet feet are inevitable, and it is slow going on the uneven, soft grass. Daylight gradually appeared as I worked my way over the almost endless trail, hoping for coffee but knowing that it was a long plod to get there.
The first of the disused quarries appeared sooner than I expected, as I spotted the deep pit to my right. I felt a certain confidence as I started negotiating the slate-covered trails through the site, fully confident in where I was going. The trail felt almost eerie through Cwt-y-bugail and along the side of Llyn Bowydd, with the landscape decimated by quarrying, and the trails abandoned to fall apart. Navigating the former roads can be tricky; they are broken up and muddy, and on previous occasions I've resorted to simply running through the water. This time, I was managing to keep my feet relatively dry, sometimes picking along the bank at the side, or sticking to the track where it was not too wet.
| Llyn Bowydd at a disused quarry above Blaeneau Ffestiniog |
As I passed the lower, disused quarry at Maen-offeren, and was nearing Blaeneau Ffestiniog, I found myself with some other runners. We crossed an access track and headed down a trail. After a couple of minutes, I realised we'd missed a turn. I shouted to the others, and headed back up the steep hill to correct. Some were a long way down the hill, and didn't hear others shouting to them. I knew they could correct the mistake by picking up a track further down, and I took a lead for those that had realised the mistake, and picked up the trail through the vegetation that tracked around the side of the hill.
I was frustrated by a runner who was in front, but moving cautiously, with no chance to pass. I probably should have just asked, but I was too tired to communicate so I just waited, and passed when the trail opened out. I got myself in clear air again for the descent to the town, and pulled my party trick of holding a run until I arrived at the checkpoint. As a strategy, it works well - people regularly lose a lot of time in the mile or two before a checkpoint, as they are fading and in need of nutrition.
Leg 7: Blaeneau Ffestiniog - Croesor
Saturday 0510hrs, 72.3km
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| Setting out after a sleep |